Sabbatical 2022: Camino Steps – I

On June 11, Erwin and I joined six others for our walk on the Camino Francés, one of the historic pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.
We are led by Rachel and Lorraine, wonderful guides with the travel group, Spanish Steps.
For the first few days, we enjoyed wooded walks in Galicia. On my backpack is a shell, a traditional symbol of a pilgrim, walking the way to the cathedral where the remains of St. James the Apostle are buried.
In the 12th century Church of Santiago de Barbadelo, there’s a wonderful image of St. James, dressed as a pilgrim.
One of my favorite dishes is Caldo Gallego, a greens, white bean, and potato soup. The Fontecelta brand of fizzy water exemplifies the Galician pride in its Celtic, Pre-Roman past.
Here is a field of “berza”, a Spanish collard green, used in the soup.
The 12th century Church of St. Nicholas (also Igrexa de San Xoán) in Portomarin, Spain.
Romanesque tympanum showing the Annunciation, just over the door. Portomarin, Spain.
The church was full on Saturday night for Mass with special prayers for a local parishioner who had recently died.
Cruceiro de Lameiros, one of the oldest crosses along the Camino, is a traditional place for leaving symbolic prayers and offerings, making it an especially holy place. I left a coin here which had belonged to a friend of Holy Trinity, whose widow asked that I might place it in a special place along the Camino.
A detail of the cross at Lameiros, showing the Virgin Mary and the Baby Jesus.
The entrance of the 12th century Church of San Salvador de Vilar de Donas, headquarters of the Order of Santiago and burial place for some of its notables.
Interior of Vilar de Donas, showing 15th century frescoes.
Fresco of the Virgin Mary, shown as pregnant.
Part of the original altar at Vilar de Donas, showing the Miracle of O Cebreiro. The story is from around 1300, when there was a huge snowstorm in Galicia. A local man came to church, wanting Holy Communion. The priest was cold and grumbled, as he wondered why the man was bothering to come in the snow. But during the Celebration of the Eucharist, the bread and wine BECAME the flesh and body of Christ, shown here on the altar. The miracle reminds me that I can never know the reasons a person might come to church and can never know when God might choose to appear in new ways that humble and surprise. A wonderful story to meditate on in this upcoming week of Corpus Christi.
The view from our room at Casa Roan, A Ulloa, Galicia, as I look forward to the next segment of our Camino.